. A staff writer at The New Yorker, he leads a counterlife as an obsessive surfer, traveling around the world, throwing his vulnerable, merely human body into line after line of waves in search of transient moments of grace…It’s an occupation that has never before been described with this tenderness and deftness.”—TIME Magazine, Top 10 Nonfiction Books of 2015 “A hefty masterpiece.” —Geoff Dyer, The Guardian“Terrific…Elegantly written and structured, it’s a riveting adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, and a restless, searching meditation on love, friendship and family…A writer of rare subtlety and observational gifts, Finnegan explores every aspect of the sport — its mechanics and intoxicating thrills, its culture and arcane tribal codes — in a way that should resonate with surfers and non-surfers alike. Ihre zuletzt angesehenen Artikel und besonderen Empfehlungen. His voice was inconsistent. Things happen. Reviewed in Australia on 14 February 2018. It's filled with wonderful anecdotes and is as funny as it is moving. s1.charset='UTF-8'; The book needs a good editor. Per Webster’s Dictionary, “barbarian” refers to a “… culture or people alien to, and usually believed to be inferior to another people or culture… “ A Barbarian might be seen as lacking refinement, learning, or artistic or literary culture. There's much of interest, but at times the pacing is slow: slower than in a New Yorker piece. No pretension or flab here. I can relate, man. You wouldn't think someone could write a 100 pages about surfing which would interest a non surfer, but this does the job admirably. In Southern California. Dezember 2019. Finnegan does not answer the question of whether our surfing days will end before we do. And it’s even better than one could have imagined…This is Finnegan’s gift. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. It is a interesting read which touches on subjects like apartheid and the environment and unique cultures but the focus is still on surfing. Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Corporations and Big Media enter the surfing world wth an eye to making lots of money as millions of youth around the world are reeled in by the images and attraction of this looser way of life. Finnegan has certainly written a surfing book for surfers, but on a more fundamental level, ‘Barbarian Days’ offers a cleareyed vision of American boyhood. Few crowds..a welcome community of local surf guys and few social issues. Rezension aus Deutschland vom 4. A man raised in Woodland Hills (I live in Calabasas), living a time in Hawaii and Lahaina (We have two places just outside Lahaina and spend months per year there - I'm writing this review from Maui), who went to school at UCSC (I grew up in Santa Cruz), writing about surfing and his time as a writer for the New Yorker, a magazine I've been reading, with my father, since I as a boy? In Hawaii. Sie hören eine Hörprobe des Audible Hörbuch-Downloads. It’s a way to help them—and us—understand what drives him to keep paddling out half a century after first picking up a board.” —NPR.org “[A] lyrical, intellectual memoir. on Jun 10, 2015. Instead, Finnegan comes off as the worst kind of cliche, one of the thousands just like him in the water on any given day. Momentanes Problem beim Laden dieses Menüs. Außerdem analysiert es Rezensionen, um die Vertrauenswürdigkeit zu überprüfen. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. If you like memoirs, this one is okay, but just okay. Oddly enough since I have always lived on the Northern plains and have only been to the ocean a few times, I loved this book. During the counterculture movement, he swaps his longboard for a shortboard, which was then revolutionizing the sport. I just read William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days, a fine memoir of his surfing life. Come for the waves, stay for the writing. Surprising, considering Finnegan is a New Yorker writer (that is, if you subscribe to the notion that journalists, more than novelists, are more likely to stay on point and cut to the narrative bone). The cultures he experienced first-hand. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. Admittedly, I may not be the best judge. Descriptions of the rest of his life are not especially interesting, either, which is surprising, considering the kinds of assignments he's had as a writer for the New Yorker. Somehow this left me with a sense of pride, as if some of this adventure was mine as well. Soon afterwards, I heard that the book had won the 2016 William Hill Sports Book of the Year Award in the UK, having already picked up a Pulitzer for Biography. containerClass: 'menu-primary-responsive-container', Yet, his tale is all good, starting with an easy drop as a teenager, living for a year off Diamond Head in Hawai'i, rambling through a flarblot sectiony bit -- I dunno, going to college, or having relationships, or something -- reaching a re-formed wave, a beautiful ride during his Endless Winter years in the South Pacific, bumbvorting bout, and even planting a first-wave discover's flag on Tavarua, Fiji (Finnegan does not claim to have been the first to surf it, just one of early ones). It wasn’t exactly homesickness. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. I passed a graveyard. Soon afterwards, I heard that the book had won the 2016 William Hill Sports Book of the Year Award in the UK, having already picked up a Pulitzer for Biography. I shared his passion for surfing but then let career, family and the quest for financial security pull me away from that surfing life. Bigger than it looks, intensely powerful and fast. If the Amazon.com.au price decreases between your order time and the end of the day of the release date, you'll receive the lowest price.